Out of the Water, I am Nothing

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"There are no more committed people on the planet than surfers. We fall down a lot. We turn around, paddle back out, and do it over and over again. Unlike anything else in life, the stoke of surfing is so high that the failures quickly fade from memory." -    Gary Sirota (surfer)

 

Foreword

Mililani Moon misses Hawaii.

 

She was born and raised in O'ahu, Hawaii, US, and practically lived on Makaha Beach. 

'Lani grew up with a proud Hawaiian mother and a sweet Korean father, who respected heritage above all, so she took lessons to become fluent in English, Korean, Hawaiian, and, through family, Pidgin.

She was about to embark in a professional career in surfing when she turned 21, when her mother was killed tragically in a storm while visiting family in Maui. After that, her father relocated them to Korea in order for his family to help them out financially, since Kaia's family was too spread through the islands, and Sangwon's family all lived in the same block in Busan. It's a great financial move, but not everyone was all-in.

 

Mililani became bitter at the move, and she wants to go back home.

 

Mililani's Morning Shift mixtape

chapter art by:

kidstablegirl
Tissues, anyone? :)
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